The opening roll sets the tone for the entire game. Unlike the middle game, where every position is unique, the opening has been analysed so thoroughly by computer software that there is a clearly correct play for nearly every first roll.
This guide covers the best opening move for all 15 possible rolls, explains why each move is strong, and gives you the principles to understand them — not just memorise them.
How the Opening Roll Works
At the start of the game, each player rolls one die. The higher roll goes first, and that player uses both numbers shown for their opening move.
Because each player rolls one die, ties are re-rolled until someone rolls higher. This means doubles are impossible on the opening roll — there are exactly 15 possible opening combinations (2-1 through 6-5).
Opening Principles — Why Certain Moves Are Best
Before listing all 15 rolls, it helps to understand what makes an opening move strong.
Making a point is always better than leaving a blot. When you can place two checkers on the same point, you own it — your opponent cannot land there. This is the foundation of all strong opening play.
The 5-point is the most valuable point on the board. Owning your 5-point early gives you a strong home board anchor, limits your opponent’s re-entry options, and starts a potential prime. Fight for it on the first move whenever you can.
The bar-point (7-point) is the next priority. Owning the bar-point extends your potential prime and restricts your opponent’s back checkers.
Splitting your back checkers gives flexibility. Moving one of your two back checkers from the 24-point to the 23-point or 22-point creates more options for making an anchor in your opponent’s board on future rolls.
Slotting is an aggressive option. Placing a single checker on a key point (like the 5-point) with the intention of covering it next turn is a valid tactic — but it leaves a blot that can be hit. If you are new to backgammon, favour the safer option when in doubt.
The Best Opening Plays — All 15 Rolls
Point-making rolls (strongest openings)
3-1 — Make your 5-point Move one checker from your 8-point to your 5-point, and one from your 6-point to your 5-point. This is the strongest opening roll in backgammon. You immediately secure the most valuable point on the board with no risk.
4-2 — Make your 4-point Move one checker from your 8-point to your 4-point, and one from your 6-point to your 4-point. The 4-point is the second-best home board point. Making it immediately is an excellent start.
6-1 — Make your bar-point (7-point) Move one checker from your 13-point to your 7-point, and one from your 8-point to your 7-point. Securing the bar-point starts a potential prime and immediately restricts your opponent’s back checkers.
5-3 — Make your 3-point Move one checker from your 8-point to your 3-point, and one from your 6-point to your 3-point. The 3-point is less powerful than the 5-point or 4-point, but making any home board point without risk is a solid start.
Running rolls
6-5 — Lover’s Leap Run one back checker all the way from your 24-point to your 13-point. This is the only opening roll that brings a back checker fully to safety in one move. There is no debate — this is the correct play for 6-5.
6-4 — Run to the 14-point Run one back checker from your 24-point to your 14-point. An awkward roll with no clean point-making option. Running a back checker as far as possible is the best use of it.
6-3 — Run and develop Run one back checker from your 24-point to your 18-point, and move one checker from your 13-point to your 10-point. Splits your efforts between escaping a back checker and bringing a builder down from the midpoint.
6-2 — Develop the midpoint Move one checker from your 13-point to your 11-point, and one from your 13-point to your 7-point. Brings builders into position and threatens the bar-point. An alternative is running a back checker from 24 to 18.
Builder development rolls
5-4 — Develop from the midpoint Move one checker from your 13-point to your 8-point, and one from your 13-point to your 9-point. Brings two builders close to your home board. No immediate point-making, but good development.
5-2 — Develop Move one checker from your 13-point to your 8-point, and one from your 13-point to your 11-point. Standard development, bringing builders into position for future point-making.
5-1 — Slot the 5-point Move one checker from your 13-point to your 8-point, and one from your 6-point to your 5-point. This slots the 5-point — aggressive but worth it. If your opponent doesn’t hit, you can cover on the next roll. The 5-point is valuable enough to take this risk.
4-1 — Slot the 5-point Move one checker from your 13-point to your 9-point, and one from your 6-point to your 5-point. Same concept as 5-1 — slot the 5-point while bringing a builder down. Worth the risk.
4-3 — Develop Move one checker from your 13-point to your 9-point, and one from your 13-point to your 10-point. Standard midpoint development. Some players prefer splitting a back checker (24 to 20 or 21), which is also acceptable.
3-2 — Develop or split Move one checker from your 13-point to your 10-point, and one from your 13-point to your 11-point. Alternatively, split a back checker (24 to 21) and bring one down from the midpoint. Both are reasonable — the split gives you more flexibility in your opponent’s board.
2-1 — Split and develop Move one checker from your 13-point to your 11-point, and split a back checker from your 24-point to your 23-point. The 2-1 has no strong point-making option. Splitting the back checkers and bringing a builder down is the standard play.
Opening Move Summary Table
| Roll | Best Play | What it does |
|---|---|---|
| 3-1 | 8/5, 6/5 | Make the 5-point |
| 4-2 | 8/4, 6/4 | Make the 4-point |
| 6-1 | 13/7, 8/7 | Make the bar-point |
| 5-3 | 8/3, 6/3 | Make the 3-point |
| 6-5 | 24/13 | Lover’s Leap — run back checker |
| 6-4 | 24/14 | Run back checker |
| 6-3 | 24/18, 13/10 | Run and develop |
| 6-2 | 13/11, 13/7 | Develop midpoint |
| 5-4 | 13/8, 13/9 | Develop from midpoint |
| 5-2 | 13/8, 13/11 | Develop |
| 5-1 | 13/8, 6/5 | Slot the 5-point |
| 4-1 | 13/9, 6/5 | Slot the 5-point |
| 4-3 | 13/9, 13/10 | Develop |
| 3-2 | 13/10, 13/11 | Develop or split |
| 2-1 | 13/11, 24/23 | Split and develop |
Free Printable
🎲 Backgammon Opening Moves & Rules Cheat Sheet — Free Download
Keep the key rules and opening move reminders beside you while you play. This free 3-page printable covers movement, scoring, the doubling cube, and quick reference reminders — everything you need in one place.
Download Free →What to Focus on After the Opening
The opening is the one part of backgammon where there is a clear right answer for every roll. After the first move, positions become unique and strategy takes over.
The most important things to carry from the opening into the middle game are:
- Which key points you have made or are threatening to make
- Where your back checkers are and how easy they are to escape
- Whether you have builders in useful positions to make more points next turn
👉 Full backgammon strategy guide — the 4 game plans, primes, anchors and more
Common Opening Mistakes
Playing passively when you can make a point. Many beginners move safe checkers forward when they could be making a key point. If you can make the 5-point, always make it.
Leaving two blots in your home board. Some opening rolls tempt beginners to slot two points at once. This is too risky — your opponent can hit both blots and gain a massive advantage.
Running a back checker when you can make a point. Running is tempting when you roll a 6, but if you can make a strong point instead (like the bar-point on 6-1), the point-making play is almost always better.
Ignoring the 5-point. Beginners often play 5-1 or 4-1 by moving safe checkers rather than slotting the 5-point. The risk of leaving the blot is worth it — the 5-point is that valuable.